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After sharing tips on leveling the table saw wings and aligning the blade with the miter gauge slots, I’m concluding this series with calibration advice on setting the 90-degree and 45-degree tilt limits. These stops ensure your cuts match the intended angle precisely. While you could check with a square each time, setting the limits on the trunnions to stop precisely at 90 and 45 degrees provides a more efficient workflow.
Setting the 90-degree Limit
Start by ensuring that the throat plate is flush with the cast iron tabletop by adjusting its set screws. Then, rotate the tilt handwheel fully to the 90-degree stop. Use a high-quality combination square or a precision square, and tuck its blade against the saw blade, checking between the carbide teeth. To ensure accuracy, hold the square’s head flush with the tabletop and gently align the square blade with the saw blade without applying excessive lateral pressure—this prevents skewing the reading.
If there’s a gap at the square’s base or top, the 90-degree stop needs adjustment. Follow the manual to loosen the locking nut on the tilt limit bolt, adjust the bolt until the blade is perfectly square, and then tighten the securing nut. This adjustment ensures that the trunnion stops at 90 degrees, so you won’t need to check with a square each time.
A tiny gap at the top of the square’s blade indicates the blade is not set up at 90 degrees to the table saw’s top.
Using a machinist’s square gives you a more accurate way to identify and correct the 90° limits. Here, the square shows that the blade is in perfect alignment.
Calibrating the 45-degree Tilt Limit
A properly calibrated 45-degree stop is essential for clean miters, whether for a box, frame, or door. Similar to the 90-degree stop, the saw has a dedicated limit bolt and securing nut for the 45-degree angle. Start by rotating the handwheel to the 45-degree stop.
While the manual might suggest using a combination square head, its width can make it tricky to position between the carbide teeth.
Many people use a magnetic digital level, but I’ve found this method can be hit-or-miss due to variances in quality and alignment difficulty. To use a digital level accurately, you need to zero it by aligning it to the blade and throat plate at 0 degrees before tilting it to 45 degrees. However, some models can be overly sensitive, introducing errors.
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- To use a magnetic level align the level against the blade and the throat plate.
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- Then Zero the redaing and begin tilting the blade until it reaches a 45 degree
A machinist’s 45-degree square is a simpler and more reliable option. Check for any gaps between the square and the blade at 45 degrees. If adjustments are needed, loosen the securing nut, adjust the limit bolt, and recheck. Once set, the saw will consistently stop at a perfect 45-degree angle.
The squares I use for calibrating my machines are machinist squares. These tools are manufactured worldwide, with many makers adhering to the German DIN 875 standard for precision. In this system, lower numbers indicate greater accuracy, so a DIN 875-0 square offers the highest precision and is costly, while DIN 875-1 or DIN 875-2 squares are more affordable and perfectly suited for setting up woodworking machines.
Not quite 45 degrees
Almost 45°
An accurate 45°
Final Thoughts
Properly setting these tilt limits will enhance both the precision and efficiency of your work. By ensuring that your table saw is calibrated correctly, you’ll achieve cleaner cuts and a smoother workflow. Thank you for following along in this calibration series, and I hope these tips help you get the most out of your table saw.
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