How Do You Safely Sharpen Your Tools?

Nothing is more aggravating than having your kitchen knife fail to cut warm butter at the height of summer. The same thing happens with your pocket knife — either it’s rusted, its hinges are gunked up and it’s good for nothing but opening postal envelopes. 

Culinary knives that can’t even cut tomatoes or anything slightly harder without repetitive sawing are almost as awful — or even worse, probably depending on your point of view. There is no justification for edged tools to be in this situation. Sharpening edged instruments is one of the most essential outdoor skills, and it also has a tremendous reward in the home. The real kicker is that it is no longer restricted to mountain men who solely consume bear meat. The days of relying only on Arkansas stones and a little luck are long gone. It’s not difficult at all; you simply need the correct tools.

HOW TO SHARPEN YOUR EDGED TOOLS

Clean the blades

To remove any corrosion, stuck dirt, or other material off the edge of your cutting tool, use a solid scrub brush and soapy water. Later, dip the knife in a chemical or solvent such as kerosene. If you employ your equipment on evergreens, make sure to clear off the pitch remains, either with kerosene or oil. Once dried, apply a thin coat of lubricating oil to the blades.

Check the sharpness

Inspect the blade’s edge to ascertain the proper sharpening angle, normally 10 to 15 degrees. Check the manufacturer’s instruction manual for additional detailed sharpening requirements and precautions. Remember that the blade must be sharpened on both sides.

Sharpening equipment is primarily a question of personal preference:

• Saw files are multifunctional tools that are often used to sharpen blades. They have a comparable form to flat and hand files and thereby adapt nicely to jobs that need them.
• Whetstones are one of the most popular choices and come in an array of gradations and sizes, but a longer one may be simpler to deal with.
• A diamond-coated mill file needs just a bit of water lubrication, stays flat for quick sharpening, and is long-lasting.
• Grinding stones must be used with extreme caution since they transmit friction heat, changing metal temperature and making it more brittle.
• Sharpening steel can be used for polishing, finishing, or a swift repair.

Begin sharpening the blades

Begin by using a moderate-sized whetstone. Immerse the stone in freshwater or mild motor oil to thoroughly moisten it. Many folks like to use vegetable oil for a much smoother finish. Since water evaporates fast, oil is typically a preferable choice. It will not only function as a lubricant but will also remove grime away while sharpening.

While grinding, push the blade against the stone’s curved surface to keep the proper angle. If you want to shave a small slice off the whetstone, use multiple smooth strokes. Don’t exert too much pressure. 

Smooth the edges

When you’ve got the right angle and sharpness, switch to a finer-grain whetstone and keep sharpening until you have a razor-sharp edge. Don’t make the beveled edge any thinner than 0.04-inches. A finer edge does not improve sharpening abilities but makes the blade more brittle and susceptible to damage or breaking.

Test the sharpness

You should perform an initial test without leaving the house. Try putting the cutting edge in front of a light source; if you can observe light bouncing off the blade’s edge, it isn’t sharp enough.

So, once the equipment has passed the light-reflection exam, you can put it to the final test by running it through its paces on the size of the branch it is meant to cut. If the blades have been adequately honed, they will produce clean, effortless cuts. If you feel it catching or pulling, it isn’t well sharpened. Keep sharpening using the fine whetstone, or you can swap to an even extra-fine stone in that event. Recheck as needed; beware not to over-sharpen the edges.