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A tongue-and-groove joint reinforces the box’s structure alongside the long-grain miter joints.
Crafting the tops and bottoms of the boxes.
Part 1 • Part 2 • Part 3 • Part 4
After milling and beveling (mitering) the long edges of the boxes’ sides, I turned my attention to the tops and bases. I crafted these rectangular parts from the same reclaimed stock used for the sides to maintain a cohesive look.
For connecting the bases and tops to the sides, I chose the reliable and straightforward tongue-and-groove joint. Given the bases measured roughly 4″ x 4″, I didn’t account for seasonal expansion and contraction. Since the long-grain dimension wouldn’t change and any width fluctuation would be negligible, I confidently glued the tongues of the bases and tops into the corresponding grooves I milled into the box sides.
Forming the Tongues
To create the tongues, I used the table saw. There are two common approaches:
- Using the Fence: Run the square stock upright along the fence to make the first shoulder cut.
- Using the Miter Gauge: Position the stock against the miter gauge for controlled cuts.
I opted for the miter gauge to make the first series of cuts, then finished the tongues by holding the stock upright against the fence for a secondary pass.
If holding the stock upright feels challenging, rabbet the entire tongue using the miter gauge instead. First, make the initial cut along all four sides, then adjust the miter gauge for a second all-around pass.
Forming the tongues of the bases and tops of the redwood and heart pine boxes.
Afterward, I cleaned the tongues using a carbide scraper—an indispensable tool when working with hardwoods like wenge. A rabbet plane might struggle with such dense material, but the carbide scraper handled the task with ease.
A carbide scraper is perfect for refining tongues, especially when working with tough woods like wenge.
Cutting the Grooves
Once the tongues were complete, I measured and marked the groove locations on the box sides. Here are three methods I demonstrated for marking:
- Using a Pencil: Place the formed tongue next to the box side and mark its position with a pencil.
- With a Marking Gauge: Set the blade to the tongue’s width, scribe the groove baseline, and align this mark with the saw blade for accuracy.
- Fence Alignment Method: Align the base flush with the fence, adjust the fence until the saw blade’s teeth meet the tongue’s edge, and lock the fence for consistency.
Each method ensures precise groove placement—choose one based on your tools and preference.
With the grooves marked, I set the saw’s fence to the appropriate distance and crosscut the grooves into each of the box sides. If the groove width exceeded the table saw blade’s kerf, I adjusted the fence and made a second pass.
Test Assembly
After milling the tongues and grooves, I test-fitted all the parts. I assembled the sides over the bases and tops, securing everything with rubber bands to hold it snugly in place.
Rubber bands are excellent for test-fitting assemblies, ensuring alignment without clamps.
Stay tuned for the next installment, where I’ll detail the gluing process and share tips for achieving tight, seamless joints.
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