Serpentine Table

The Front Curves
If you prefer, you can make the front drawer and rails from one solid piece of wood that’s 2-3/4″ thick. Or you can go the easier route (shown in photo 3) by making them out of three separate pieces – one for the top drawer rail, one for the drawer front and one for the bottom drawer rail – and temporarily screw them together before band-sawing your pattern.

Before you cut your pattern, trim the drawer rails to length and cut the 1/2″-long tenons that join the rails to the legs. The tenons on the rails are 3/8″ thick and 1-1/2″ wide (the same dimensions as the mortises).

For the bottom drawer rail, cut the tenons so they are centered on the thickness of the piece. This should give you a 1/4″ shoulder on the top and bottom of the tenon. For the top rail, you need to offset the tenon a bit so that it doesn’t blow out the mortise wall in the leg. So while the tenon is the same finished size, I make the bottom shoulder 1/16″ and the top shoulder 7/16″.

With the tenon shoulders established, screw the drawer front blank between the rails. Cut the curves on this assembly and sand the piece with a 6″ belt sander, a detail sander and sanding blocks.

Unscrew the rails from the drawer front, then dry-fit and clamp the rails between your assembled side aprons. Measure the opening for the back piece. Cut this part to length for biscuits or tenons (whichever you prefer). The unit is now ready to assemble. Glue the back and rails between your side assemblies.

Making the Drawer
To assemble the drawer’s web frame, first cut the front support rail that fits behind the bottom drawer rail. This will need 41° miters at either end, so cut it to fit the opening.

Then cut the two drawer runners to size and screw them to the front support rail. I put the web frame together simply by screwing through the front support rail and into the drawer runners.

To install the web frame in the case, glue the front support rail to the bottom drawer rail. To attach it at the back, screw two small support blocks to the back of the case, then screw the drawer runners to each block.

Next, cut and fit the drawer guides. These narrow strips are screwed to the web frame and keep the drawer moving smoothly. Position and install these once your drawer is built and fits.

Then cut the drawer front to fit its opening and cut a curve on its inside face. This lightens its appearance and makes it easier to fit the lock.

You’ll want to add the lock and inlay design to the drawer front before you complete construction of the drawer (see “Adding the Lock Inlay” below for more). My lock and drawer pulls usually are 3/4″ solid brass. Check your hardware store and choose whatever will be most pleasing.

The most challenging part of building the drawer is the 1/4″ groove on its curved backside that holds the drawer bottom in place. Once you’ve cut the curve, mill the groove for the bottom using a bearing-guided slot cutter in your router table. The bearing will follow the curve easily. Use the same slot-cutter to mill the groove for the bottom piece on both of your drawer side pieces. With the groove cut, you can cut your drawer joints. I use half-blind dovetails at the front and through dovetails at the rear. The construction drawing shows you how I laid out my dovetails.

Dry-assemble the drawer and fit the drawer bottom to the groove and curve on the drawer front.

Topping it Off
Choose some nice boards with grain that curves to mimic the shape of the top (if possible) that you can glue together to serve as the top. Once this glue dries, you’re ready to cut the pattern along the sides, and for this you can use the table’s base as a pattern.

Turn the top upside down on your bench and flip the table base on top of it. Clamp the top drawer rail to the underside of the top and mark all around the base with a marking block that offsets your line by 1/2″.

Band saw the top to shape, sand the curves and finish-sand the top to its final grit.

To attach the top, glue scraps (about 7/8″ x 7/8″) to the top edge of the side and back aprons. You’ll attach the top to the base by screwing through these blocking pieces.

Now screw a drawer kick between the top drawer rail and the blocking. This piece of wood keeps the drawer from drooping as you pull it out of the case. Then screw the top to the base through these strips and the front drawer rail.

My Finishing Technique
Round over all the edges with a 1/8″ roundover bit in your router and sand everything up to #150 grit. Saturate the piece with one thinned coat of DEFT oil (an oil and varnish blend) and let it dry for one week – yes, one week.

Add two coats of sanding sealer, sand it with #240-grit paper, use two coats of semi-gloss lacquer and rub with 0000 steel wool.

Then spray on some furniture polish and wait for the inevitable compliments. PW

Adding the Lock Inlay
One of the traditions of Kentucky-style furniture is the inlay, which I’ve done on this table around the lock/key area of the drawer.

Once you have a pattern you like, mark on the drawer front where you want it and clamp your template to the piece using a wood block.

Then take a sharp knife and trace around the pattern. Remove the clamp and template and make the cuts deeper so you can see the outline clearly.

Next, take a router with a small bit (I usually use a 1/16″-diameter straight bit) to waste away the wood up to your knife lines. Then you can chisel out the rest. Insert the inlay piece you’ve made (also based on your template) and you’ll be pleased with the way it works.

I’ve done some pieces where the inlay is of a contrasting wood, as well as where the inlay is of the same wood, and have been pleased with both.

FULL SIZE PATTERNS (pdf)
Apron Edge
Cabriole Legs
Table Top
Drawer Front and Rails Edge

Warren A. May has been crafting furniture for decades in Berea, Ky.

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