When I first got serious about woodworking after college, I remember reading a dire warning in a woodworking book about working with pine:
“If you work with pine, be sure to purchase your material, mill it, cut it and assemble the entire project all in a single day. If you let pine sit overnight, it will warp and be unusable.”
At the time, the warning flummoxed me. Sure, the pine from our home center tended to cup a bit if left to its own devices. But the pine I’d salvaged from my home’s 100-year-old floor was the most righteous and stable stuff I’d ever laid hands on.
Since those early days, I have had lots of experience with pine. Thousands of board feet of all sorts of species have passed under my hands: yellow pine, sugar pine, some wacky junk from Sweden, and (this week) Eastern white pine.
All of the species have their charms. The yellow pine is tough like maple but is difficult to saw. The sugar pine is lightweight and stable but splintery. The Swedish stuff reminds me of some exchange students at my high school. And the Eastern white pine cuts and planes beautifully.
Here’s the truth: What I have found is that pine is stable when it’s properly dried and at equilibrium with its environment. Pine’s bad rap comes from the fact that it’s usually sold a little wet at the lumberyard. As it dries, it moves. Also, I’ve found that construction-grade pine is prone to suffer from drying defects, such as case-hardening, which also besmirches its name.
The hard data from the U.S. Forestry Service backs all this up. The government’s “dimensional change coefficient” figures for hardwoods and softwoods predict how much a species will move when the humidity changes.
Most of the pines are more stable than typical domestic hardwoods. Eastern white pine and sugar pine, for example, move less in service than all the typical domestic hardwoods: maple, cherry, oak, walnut, alder, beech, birch, hickory and ash. And quartersawn Eastern white pine barely moves at all, according to our government. It’s like the MDF of the softwood world. A theoretical 12″-wide quartersawn board would move about .009″ when its moisture content changed by one percentage point. That ain’t much.
The pine in our shop this week is a joy. When we brought it in, the moisture meter readings indicated it was actually a little drier than the rest of the wood in our shop. And so I knew what to do: Cut the stuff to length and let it soak up a bit of moisture. It moved a bit. And now it’s tamed.
– Christopher Schwarz
When pine goes bad. Here’s a piece of yellow pine that was brought in right from the lumberyard and planed to 3/4″ thick. Overnight, it cupped like this. Of course, this could be a novel way to make a coopered door….
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Case hardening is indeed a drying defect from the kiln. The outside dries too fast and tension is introduced in the board. So when you rip the board, the components move as that tension is released. It can be a dangerous defect with power equipment.
Almost all the construction lumber in the Midwest is kiln-dried. In my trips out West I’ve found construction lumber can come either way: wet or kiln-dried. It depends on the yard.
Chris
I had to go look up what "case hardening" means for wood. Wikipedia described this as a potential result of improper kiln drying. My question: where do you find construction grade lumber that is kiln dried, or does this have other causes?
(My first guess at "case hardening" made me think of the 60-year-old doug fir in my house–completely impossible to drive nails in to by hand with any delicacy, and the reason I bought a pneumatic nailer)
Matt
Chris,
Sure, quartersawn Eastern white pine is quite stable. It has a nice low volumetric shrinkage value of 8.2% (green to oven dry). However, that is distributed as 6.1% tangential and 2.1% radial, giving it an awful T/R of 2.9, one of the highest of any species. So flatsawn EWP, the way it is usually cut, cups a lot with moisture changes. As you say, it is often supplied too wet. Put those two factors together and there’s the bad rep. It also deposits a lot of pitch on power saw blades.
That all said, it’s still a nice wood, even underappreciated. Good luck with the project!
Rob
Mmmm… the side of the pine plank in B&W looks like tuna, delicious!
Coyote,
The yellow pine we bring into the shop is all wetter than furniture-grade stuff, which I noted above. Usually 12-18 percent MC. We keep the warped board above as a demonstration of what *not* to do. It’s not furniture stock. Never was.
Chris
As far as the yellow pine board most of this is used for roofing rafters and only dried to about 15 to 12 percent I believe. Did you check the moisture content before you planed it.
Chris,
I have no idea what type or kind of 1 X 12 pine boards I bought at one of the home centers several years ago. It has remained perfectly flat all this time; and, though it is very soft, it has been great to work with it. That is the stuff I used to make Sierra’s little treasure chest; I used only dabs of glue and brads, even on the coopered lid.
"The pine in our shop this week is a joy."
If you want a real treat, mill up some scraps to 8-10 mm (5/16" to 3/8" for the metric challenged) and do some half blind DTs, or a little thicker for some through DTs.
Pares so nicely–crisp I would call it. You’ll have an itch to make some drawers with it.
The project is looking good. I have always wanted to make a dry sink since seeing Sexton’s version in PopWood a couple years ago.
Looking forward to the article.
Take care,