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“Finishes that Pop,” the Popular Woodworking DVD that walks through the finish process I use on my fine furniture, is shipping and available from  Woodworker’s BookShop (Click here to make your purchase). In the DVD I describe the steps used to apply aniline dye, boiled linseed oil (when advantageous) and topcoat my projects. Additionally, I talk about my topcoat of choice, shellac. I suggest you spray the finish with an HVLP (high volume, low pressure) setup , good units are available at reasonable prices , but I also discuss how to apply shellac with a brush.

I use flake and mix the shellac in the shop (of course that process is explained), but I’m not opposed to traipsing into my hardware store to purchase and use pre-mixed shellac. As long as the date is good, it’s a fine product to use.

But one area in which I don’t take shortcuts involves my brushes. I don’t use chip brushes. I don’t use foam brushes. I like a good quality brush. I say, “A 25-cent brush is going to deliver a 25-cent job.” I’m going to spend $80 for a real badger-hair paintbrush; you don’t need to go that far. But I would pick up a brush that sells in the $10 – $20 range. Then clean it properly after every use.

Does a brush really make a difference in the finish? I say yes. Your better-quality brushes hold more finish as you move to from your source to the project and that keeps you from loading the brush constantly and allows the material , shellac in this case , to spread more smoothly.

I’ve discussed this with finishing expert, Bob Flexner. In his book “Understanding Wood Finishing” (Reader’s Digest), Flexner says, “A good-quality brush is important if you expect good results.” In fact, Zinsser, the manufacturer of Bulls Eye shellac, recommends using a 2″ or 3″ china-bristle brush or a high-quality synthetic-bristle brush.

A brush for your finish is no place to skimp.

A great tip I picked up from Flexner is to clean your shellac brushes in a 50-50 mixture of water and household ammonia for the best results.

– Glen D. Huey

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