|
|||||||||||||||||||
|
|
-25.JPG "This is something you mix to your liking. To start, I suggest three or four parts solvent to one part white paint. You may want it thicker, so you would need to reduce the amount of solvent or water (if you’re using latex paint). Get it? (Remember, if you are using latex paint, it will raise the grain and the paint will set-up fast — so work quickly.)")
This is something you mix to your liking. To start, I suggest three or four parts solvent to one part white paint. You may want it thicker, so you would need to reduce the amount of solvent or water (if you’re using latex paint). Get it? (Remember, if you are using latex paint, it will raise the grain and the paint will set-up fast — so work quickly.)
-26.JPG "It’s about feel and achieving the look that you want.")
It’s about feel and achieving the look that you want.
-27.JPG "After painting the surfaces, wipe the excess from the wood using paper towels.")
After painting the surfaces, wipe the excess from the wood using paper towels.
-28.JPG "If the paint has set-up, wet your wiping towel with thinner and continue the wiping surfaces. The thinner will reactivate the paint and removal will be easier.
If you’ve used latex paint and it begins to set up before you’ve had time to remove it evenly, you will have a harder time trying to remove the excess. This is why I always use oil paint for this type of finish.
Wipe the excess paint from the wood, first across the grain and then with the grain. Wiping across the grain will push the paint into the pores and then gently wiping with the grain will even out the look.
Once all surfaces have been washed and wiped, allow everything to dry for 24 hours or so.
Apply a coat of white (clear) shellac using a 1-to-5 spit coat.
Sand this sealer coat with #320-grit sandpaper, rub with No. #0000 steel wool and apply a coat of wax. Or, you can top coat with lacquer or Varathane.
Top coating with polyurethane or varnish is not advised because they are amber colored. The white effect could wind up looking old and yellowed. The clearest water-clear finish is lacquer. For the novice, I recommend that you use brushing lacquer. You should practice using brushing lacquer on a sample piece first.")
If the paint has set-up, wet your wiping towel with thinner and continue the wiping surfaces. The thinner will reactivate the paint and removal will be easier.
If you’ve used latex paint and it begins to set up before you’ve had time to remove it evenly, you will have a harder time trying to remove the excess. This is why I always use oil paint for this type of finish.
Wipe the excess paint from the wood, first across the grain and then with the grain. Wiping across the grain will push the paint into the pores and then gently wiping with the grain will even out the look.
Once all surfaces have been washed and wiped, allow everything to dry for 24 hours or so.
Apply a coat of white (clear) shellac using a 1-to-5 spit coat.
Sand this sealer coat with #320-grit sandpaper, rub with No. #0000 steel wool and apply a coat of wax. Or, you can top coat with lacquer or Varathane.
Top coating with polyurethane or varnish is not advised because they are amber colored. The white effect could wind up looking old and yellowed. The clearest water-clear finish is lacquer. For the novice, I recommend that you use brushing lacquer. You should practice using brushing lacquer on a sample piece first.
Home »
Techniques »
In a Pickle (Whitewash on Oak or Pine)
In a Pickle (Whitewash on Oak or Pine)
October 13, 2008
by Joe L'Erario -24.JPG "<i>After scrubbing the wood lightly with a wire brush (going with the grain as much as you can), apply the thinned white paint.</i>")
After scrubbing the wood lightly with a wire brush (going with the grain as much as you can), apply the thinned white paint.
Designers are always wanting to talk about the pickled finish. I can’t tell you how many of these of these finishes I’ve done in my time. Keep in mind, not many designers know the real recipe for the pickled look — which entails using unslaked lime. (Try that one on for size! Look it up.)
Usually what designers want (and what you can achieve) is done easily with white paint and solvent or, water, if you’re keen on using latex paint. The effect is best achieved on oak, ash and some types of pine. On oak or ash, the paint will fill the pores as well as render a chalky look to the rest of the wood. With pine the wood will chalk-up, but it’s harder to render an even look. If there are mouldings, the paint-wash will gather in the crevices. If this isn’t to your liking you can always paint the wood white. The panel in this example is a red oak plywood panel with solid red oak moulding attached to it. Red oak, because of its strong color, will add to the whitewashed effect, creating a pink overtone (think Andy Warhol). White oak will have a starker pallor (for those old enough, think Edgar Winter). Materials White oil paint Stain brush Paper towels White shellac Denatured alcohol Plastic containers Paste wax
This article from Joe L'Erario's book, Wood Finishing Simplified (click on title for more information). Joe L'Erario has been finishing wood since 1978, has hosted two television programs and taught many finishing seminars across North America. |
|||
| ||||
 |
Learn more about related publications and services produced by F+W Media: |
Copyright © F+W Media Inc. All Rights Reserved.