This article is an excerpt from Glen Huey's Illustrated Guide to Building Period Furniture.



Click here to download the printable project plan.

Then simply follow the steps below to create this heirloom project.

Block-front pieces may be the most sought-after American furniture style today, and the chest is the quintessential design. This sculpted gem from the Chippendale period is a superb example of what American craftsmen could deliver when challenged to move away from the more austere, flat fronts of the Queen Anne tradition.

Most major furniture centers built a version of the block-front chest, but this design was standard in the New England area, around Boston, Massachusetts. Specific features set this piece squarely in that region. The large dovetail that joins the two pieces of the bottom and the blocks that originate in the feet and terminate in the top are but two of these features.

Considered a round-blocked chest of drawers, this Boston beauty is a challenge to build and a triumph when finished. A materials list and PDF illustration can be downloaded HERE.



Step 1 This project begins by making the plywood template for the Drawer Dividers The radius for the Round portion of the piece is set at 15-3/4” The radius for the inside portion is 3/4”. Set up and layout one half of the template.


Step 2 Reset the same radius and draw the second half. Carefully cut and final shape the template.


Step 3 Mill the material for the Drawer Dividers, then use the template to mark the profile. Cut the close to the profile at the band saw, leaving a small amount to trim, position the pieces as shown, and trim to the final shape with a bottom mount bearing pattern bit and your router.


Step 4 Next, use a 1/2 rabbeting bit set for an 1/8 rabbet and place that cut directly into the middle of the Divider.


Step 5 This is an 1/8” corner beading bit to which I have changed the bearing (Increase the bearing size one step!) so that it will cut leaving an eighth inch of material. Set the bit to profile each edge of the Dividers.


Step 6 With the Dividers made we can begin the work on the Case. Lay out and create the pins on the Case Bottom after you have milled it to size


Step 7 After the pins are created, trim an 1/8” off of the pin area as shown. This will allow us to cove the dovetails with a 3/4” molding.


Step 8 Place the Bottom onto the Case Sides, aligning the back edges of the two pieces, and transfer the layout onto the Sides. Remove the waste area creating the tails and fit to joint making any necessary adjustments.


Step 9 Mill the Bottom Front to size and make the large dovetail that is XX” long x 1-1/2” wide, all centered in the piece. Cut the dovetail at the band saw and true up the edges. Next, position this piece to the Case Bottom by matching the center lines of both and transfer the layout to the Bottom. Test the fit, make any needed adjustments , and glue the dovetail into the Bottom.


Step 10 After the piece is dry, sand and position a Drawer Divider to the new Bottom as shown. The front edge of the rounded portion of the Divider should be located 5/8” from the front edge of the Bottom. Use a 1-1/2 fender washer with a 1/4” hole to draw the profile of the front edge of the Bottom.


Step 11 The washer leaves a rounded corner where the profile steps in at the center of the piece. This profile needs to be sharpened as shown


Step 12 With the bottom edge molded, slide the sides into the bottom and mark the 45 degree angle cut as shown. The shaded area is the waste that needs to be removed. Transfer the 45 degree mark to the underside of the Case Bottom.


Step 13 Next, use the router to profile the front edge of the bottom. I used a classical bit for the job.


Step 14 Remove the bottom and flip the piece in order to make the 45 degree cut. I attached a straight edge to the underside of the Case Bottom to help with the cut. Position your saw against the fence and make the cut.


Step 15 With the angle cut, next make the second cut that will allow the waste area to be removed.


Step 16 Set up the table saw with a stacked dado blade set to a 13/16” cut. Raise the blade to cut an 1/8” deep. Set the fence to cut at the layout lines that define the drawer dividers. Make the cuts in each Case Sides, for each Divider, making sure to position the piece in the correct orientation. The cut can plow completely through the Side.


Step 17 Using a 3/4”, 14 degree dovetail router bit along with a 3/4” outside diameter bushing, set the fence to 1/32” past the line of the Divider (centering the router bit into the Divider area) Run the cut with the router into the Case Side to a depth of 1-5/8”.


Step 18 The next operation that needs to be done to the Case Sides before they are ready to assemble, is to run a half-dovetail along the top edge of the Sides. Bury the router bit into an auxiliary fence so that the bit just cuts into the sides and cut the pieces on the interior face only. The bit height should be 1/2”.


Step 19 To complete the steps for the Case Sides, form a two step rabbet on the back edge of the Sides. This will house the backboards when we finish the Chest.


Step 20 Turning to the Drawer Dividers, set up the router bit, the same one used in step #17, with a scrape piece that was milled at the same time that the dividers were milled. Once the position is set, cut the dovetail profile on both sides of both ends of the Dividers.


Step 21 Remove the back portion of the dovetailed ends, leaving 2” of material on the ends. Use the saw fence as a stop. You need to remove the material on all the ends of the Dividers.


Step 22 Next, you need to remove the top edge of that same dovetailed end. I elected to use my miter saw and set the depth of cut to remove the 1/2” needed. I chose this over the table saw because it allows me to see the cuts as they are made. Setting a stop block allows you to work directly to the block on each end.


Step 23 Time for some assembly. Apply glue to the pins of the Bottom and slide the two together. Spread a small amount of glue into the dovetail socket in the Case Sides and a bit on the Divider ends, then assemble the Divider into the Case. The top edge of the Dividers dovetailed end should be flush with the Case Sides. Clamp the pieces until the joint is set.


Step 24 Mill the Case Top to size and return to the dado blade. Adjust the thickness of cut to 1/2” and make a straight cut that is set just to the overhang amount. The cut will be along the Top ends and be the length of the Case Sides. You will need to drop cut one end and stop cut the opposite end. To accomplish this, raise the blade to 1/2” and mark the spot where the blade dips both above & below the table saw top. Mark these on the fence and proceed to make the cuts by dropping the front edge of the Top at the line on the out feed side of the blade, then continue the cut through the top. The opposite cut will begin by pushing the top through the blade and stopping the cut when the front edge of the Top reaches the layout line on the in feed side of the blade.


Step 25 Load the 3/4” dovetail bit and bushing back in the router, set a straight edge fence to a line that is spaced 13/16” from the far edge of the dado cut, then slightly offset, 1/16”, the fence at the back edge of the Top. Essentially this will create a sliding dovetail slot. Make the cuts on the two sides of the Top and check the fit to the Case Sides. As you run the Sides into the slot, they will get tighter as you slide forward toward the front edge of the case. You want to just have to tap the final inch or so to tighten the fit completely. If you need to loosen the fit use sandpaper on the dovetailed edge of the Case Sides.


Step 26 Remove the Top and position the assembled case with the front edge of the Top so that 5/8” extends in front. Then, use a washer as we did in step #10 to draw the line of the front edge of the Top. Make sure that the Top is centered with the Case.


Step 27 Straighten the interior corners like before and cut the profile onto the front edge of the Top. Next, use a classical ogee bit to route the edges of the Top.


Step 28 Place the Bottom Front Molding into position with the front edge of the Sculpted Bottom and use the washer to define the profiled edge. This is the same set up that we used to determine the Top profile. Cut the piece and round over the edge with a  3/8” bit.


Step 29 Position the piece to the assembled case and clamp the two together. Make sure to have equal spacing between the two pieces. Mark the mitered edge from the Sculpted Bottom, then cut the 45 degree cuts at the miter saw.


Step 30 Attach the Bottom Front Molding to the case with glue and brads. Cut the Bottom Spacers to 3” (+,-) pieces and attach them to the case as shown again with glue and brads.


Step 31 Move back to the Case to install the Drawer Runners. Mill the pieces to size and cut a 45 degree cut at the rear end of each Runner. Pre-drill the Runners as shown, place a small amount of glue in the first 4” of the dadoed area, and attach the Runners with nails (N-7, 1-1/2” Horton Brass)


Step 32 Mill the feet stock to size according to the cut sheet and transfer the foot profile to a piece of plywood for a pattern. Layout the pattern so that there is two Side Feet for both the right and left side of the chest, as well as two opposing Front Feet from the 1-1/2” material. Cut and shape the profiles, then drill the center area that forms the spur of the foot at the drill press.


Step 33 Position the Front Foot to the Case and transfer the pattern of the Front Bottom Molding onto the top of the Foot. Extend a line from the beginning of the rounded section of the Foot to the front edge and down the face as well.


Step 34 This line will be the cut line for the start of shaping the Front Feet. Set the saw so that the blade is the correct height and the fence is set to make a cut in the waste portion of the Foot. Make the cut into the face of both Feet.


Step 35 Move to the band saw, set up a straight edge fence, and make the second cut that will remove the waste area.


Step 36 Next, attach the foot to a second piece as shown and cut the rounded portion of each foot.


Step 37 Cut the 45 degree cuts to the Front and Side Feet using the end of the Front Feet as a starting point for the angle. (See Chest on Chest Steps #30 - 32).


Step 38 The rear Side Feet and the Rear Feet are treated differently. The rear Side Feet are cut square at the ends. While the Side Feet are attached to the case Bottom Side Moldings, the Rear Feet need to be notched to fit over the Bottom Spacers and attach firmly to the Case Bottom. The joint between the two is a simple groove that is 3/4” thick.


Step 39 The Side Moldings are profiled like the Sculpted Bottom and the Bottom Side Moldings are profiled as is the Bottom Molding at the Case front. Fit these pieces individually to match the appropriate moldings, then join the two with glue and brads.


Step 40 Once joined, run a small cut at the table saw down the first 5” or so and attach them to the Case with glue and brads. The saw cut will act as a reservoir to keep any glue from squeezing out onto the Sides.


Step 41 Now you are ready to attach the assembled feet to the case. Apply glue to the top edge of the feet, position to the case, and apply a few strategically placed clamps until dry. Repeat these steps for all four of the assembled feet.


Step 42 While the feet are drying make the blocking for the feet. Cut the stock into 1-1/2” x 1-1/2” pieces and glue them as shown. The idea is to rotate every other piece to change the grain direction. This stabilizes the blocks for climatic changes. I like hot hide glue for this process.


Step 43 Cut the Blocking to size, then attach with glue and brads.


Step 44 Next, cut the Drop Pendant at the band saw, sand the edges, and attach the piece to the Bottom Front Molding directly at the center of the chest.


Step 45 Now for some hand work! The ends of the Drawer Dividers need to be trimmed to a 45 degree cut to match up with the Front Face Beading. In order to make the cuts, cut a 45 degree angle on a piece of scrap, position it to the case as shown, and carefully trim the angle with a sharp chisel. This process is repeated 12 times. Once each for the top and bottom edge of the three Dividers.


Step 46 Now is the time to attach the Top to the case. Apply glue in the half-dovetailed edge of the Sides and slide the Top into position. There should be a tight fit at the front and you may need to glue a wedge at the back of each Side to tighten the joint at the rear of the case. Because the grain in the Top and the grain of the Sides is running in the same direction, you need not have cross grain concerns.


Step 47 Cut the Front Face pieces to size and fit them to the case. The face of the pieces should be flush with the center area of the Dividers and fit snug between the Top and the Bottom of the Case.


Step 48 Mill the material for the Front Face Beading and profile the edge with the 1/8” corner beading bit. Next you need to fit the pieces to the front of the case. They fit between the 45 degree cuts in the Dividers, against the Front Face pieces, and tight to the Case Sides. Fit the pieces, sand, and attach with a small amount of glue. Use a spring clamp until dry.


Step 49 Begin the shaping of the drawers once they are cut to fit the openings of the chest. Set the blanks into the case so that the front edge of the Drawer Fronts are flush with the rounded portion of the Dividers. Mark a line along the Divider onto either the top edge or bottom edge of each Drawer Front.


Step 50 This is an old trick that I learned during my home construction days. Set a saw to make kerfs in the waste area, leaving thin pieces of stock. Next, break the waste away and clean up to the line.


Step 51 Set the radial miter saw up for this task. That way you can see the work as it is being completed as opposed to using the table saw where the work is hidden against the saw top. Stay away from the rounded corner areas with the cuts. You might think to use the router for this, but the cut is too deep unless you would go after it in stages.


Step 52 Once you have the waste cleared away use a small plane to smooth to the lines.


Step 53 Next, you need to remove the waste at the rounded corners. You can cut a majority out with the band saw, but I found that using carving chisels was a snap. The #7/20 sweep gouge fits into the cut just right.


Step 54 Then, set the Divider pattern 3/4” behind the front edge of the Drawer Fronts and trace the pattern onto the top edge of the Fronts.


Step 55 Make a separate pattern for the inside radius at both ends of the center recessed area. The radius is 1-1/2”. This pattern will draw the inner edge of that turn.


Step 56 Make a two step cut that will establish the squared or “blocked” area at the ends of your Drawer Fronts. The second cut will be with the tenon cutter jig as shown. Use the 3/4” line as a reference to set the cut.


Step 57 Now it is off to the band saw! I used a 1/2”, 4 teeth per inch, skip tooth band saw blade to make the cuts. There is a lot to cut. The curved areas on the face of the Fronts and the entire back of the Drawer Fronts needs to be cut.


Step 58 Shape the rounded fronts. I used a Shinto rasp to do the bulk of the work, then went to finer rasps and files until I was ready to sand the profile. You also need to work the back of the Fronts to a smooth surface.


Step 59 Pay close attention to the lines of the “blocks”. They need to be kept straight when working the Fronts. Using a sharp chisel, straight edge or small square, along with a marking knife will help get the Front shaped. Also, periodically position the Front into the Case and check the reveal around the opening to insure an accurate fit.


Step 60 Build the Drawer Boxes. See Bonnet Top High Chest Steps # 70-77. Cut the grove for the Drawer Front to receive the Drawer Bottom as in “Desk and Bookcase” step #85.


Step 61 Mill the Drawer Bottoms to size and set the Drawer Boxes in place so that inside front edge of the Drawer Front is even with the front edge of the Bottom. Mark the profile of the drawer Front onto the Drawer Bottom.


Step 62 Cut that profile and run the bevel on the bottom face of the Drawer Bottom. I used a shaper, but a raised panel bit in your router table will work. Because the Bottom is 5/8” in thickness, the raised panel profile will leave a radius edge that needs to be clean off for the look of a beveled drawer bottom. Use a plane, chisel, and sander to smooth the profile.


Step 63 With the three edges beveled, do not bevel the rear edge of the Bottom, the panel will slide into the drawer box. Test the fit, make any adjustments, and while fitted, mark the inner edge of the Drawer Back with a short line. That line will establish the height of the blade to make the cut for the nails that hold the Bottom in position. Make a pass about 10” in from each end of the Bottom and attach to the Drawer Back with nails after the entire box and Bottom are sanded. Add a bit of glue to the groove in the front! See Bonnet Top High Chest Step #85.


Step 64 Position the Drawers into the case and align the fronts so that the reveals are set, then use glue and brads to set the Drawer Stops as shown.


Step 65 Sand the entire Case to 180 and you are ready to begin the finishing process. Before you start to finish the chest, make the backboards. They run horizontally across the back and are half-lapped at the joint. See Chest on Chest Step #61


Step 66 The Brass Pulls for this project need to be shaped to fit the curve of the rounded Drawer Fronts. Lay the pull on a scrap that is cut to the same profile and gently shape the Pulls. When the Chest is finished, the hardware can be installed.

Glen has been creating fine furniture for over thirty years, specializing in 18th and 19th Century reproductions. He is a senior editor for Popular Woodworking magazine